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Trestle Building and Detailing FAQ's
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Basswood is a softwood, and many modelers choose to prepare it before applying any solutions to achieve a weathered appearance. The first preparation removes any "fuzz" from the cutting process using a small brush with metal bristles or 180- or finer-grit sandpaper. Either way, always use the brush or sandpaper in the same direction as the wood grain. The optional second preparation step uses a razor saw to add wood grain by holding each board firmly at one end and dragging the saw's teeth along the board in the direction of the grain. Additionally, with practice, it's possible to add nice effects to the ends of beams by using the sharp tip of the modeler knife to simulate radial grain. As always, practice on scrap wood to get a feel for the pressure to apply, your desired look, and so on. And be sure to lay the wood flat as you work on it to avoid breakage.
Trestles and Water Tanks are commonly treated with creosote to prevent rot. We found that applying the dark creosote color made the overall model appear darker and more silhouetted. We prefer a lighter color. Of course, this is entirely your choice; we suggest you consider how the model will look in its final setting. Weathering the wood involves applying a weathering solution to give it a grayed appearance, simulating exposure to the elements without the benefit of new creosote or paint to protect it. There are many methods and products available to achieve this look; we will examine a couple of standard methods here.
Some modelers prefer to apply a light gray or driftwood-colored stain to the wood before weathering it, giving it a more natural appearance. Refer to the numerous online articles on buying or making a substitute for the discontinued Floquil Driftwood Stain. If you pre-stain the wood, let it dry thoroughly overnight. The most common method of weathering wood involves applying a commercial or homemade weathering solution to the wood surface with a brush, cloth, or airbrush. Weathering solutions can be categorized into two main types: water-based or solvent-based. Of the two, we prefer solvent-based solutions because we have found that water-based solutions can cause the wood to swell or warp.
Commercial products come with instructions, and we recommend that you read and follow them. If you want to try a homebrew solution, here is a formula we use. Fill a clean, empty jar (that has a lid) with 5oz of 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. Add 25 drops of black, brown, or a mixture of black and brown India ink. Before use, shake the mixture thoroughly. To apply this solution, I place the parts in the jar or pour the solution into a pan and place the parts in the pan. After a few minutes, remove the parts and pat dry to remove any excess solution. Pour the solution back into the jar. During the build, I will apply additional coats of the weathering solution to my assemblies to make them slightly darker, or to areas where the wood was cut during trimming.
Use a brush to apply the solution to the wood in the same direction as the grain. You do not necessarily want a consistent, uniform color across all parts, so do not worry about achieving a smooth application as you would with paint. You may want to apply multiple coats in some areas to achieve a more random effect. Experiment with some scrap wood to get a feel for the technique and the desired effect. If you added grain to the wood with a hobby knife or razor saw, you will find that the weathering solution will highlight the grain. Be sure to allow the weathering solution to dry thoroughly.
Some modelers also use a vinegar-and-steel-wool formula. Although I have not yet used this method, I have observed it in use and am impressed with the results. Remember that vinegar is water-based, so take precautions to prevent your wood from warping or swelling.
CAUTION: When using Isopropyl Alcohol, please do this outside or in a well-vented room. Also, use gloves when using this process, or you will end up with black or brown hands or fingers, after which you will have to explain to your family and friends. Protect your work surface from this stain by working on newspaper or paper towels.
CAUTION: Make sure that the alcohol on the newspaper or paper towels has evaporated and is dry before you throw them away so you do not start a fire in your trash can.
To achieve a different weathered look, ensuring that not all my projects look the same, I sometimes substitute brown India Ink, brown liquid shoe polish, or a brown fabric dye for Black India Ink. In some cases, I have mixed black and brown. No matter which solutions you use, keep some on hand after weathering all the wood, because you will need them as you build the model. For example, if you need to trim a piece of wood to length, you will want to touch up the cut end with the weathering solution to match the rest of the model. Just remember that the end grain of a piece of wood will absorb the stain more quickly, and it is easy to end up with an overly dark stain that turns almost black on the ends.
If I have a lot of wood to stain and after I get the stain color I am looking for, I make a large batch of the solution and keep it in a 20 to 30-oz jelly jar with a good sealable screw-top lid. That way, I can stain multiple pieces of wood simultaneously by dropping them into the jar or pouring the stain into a tray to stain larger pieces. After staining, I pour the stain back into the jar and keep it for the next staining project. Additionally, as shown in the picture (top left of the left photo), I will apply the stain mixture using a small spray bottle or airbrush.